Summer Trip to British Columbia

It was a busy summer. Too much work and stuff to do. But we managed two weeks vacation. The first was in mid-August, heading up from Vancouver to Powell River on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia. Spectacular ferry rides, a spacious, shaded campsite by the beach and wonderful hiking and mountain biking in the dense rain forest of the coastal hinterland. The water off the beach was even warm enough to swim in. Luxury.

 

Then we took another quite incredible ferry ride to Vancouver Island, marvelling at the grandeur of the Comox glacier and the jagged mountain backdrops propping up a slowly setting sun. A couple of hours drive north, we stayed at a campsite in dark, damp, cool rain forest at Telegraph Cove. The next day we jet boated through a foggy maze of islands to Knights Inlet on the mainland, where grizzly bears rule the roost. We saw about 11 from our safe haven in a small motorboat (pics here). It was quite an experience being so close to these wonderful creatures, and worth every cent. We then jetboated back in perfect weather and ate the freshest halibut imaginable at Telegraph Cove that evening. A fantastic few days.

 

A 4 hour or so drive south and by Saturday afternoon we were in a relatively sweltering Victoria. In one day we only dipped into its many potential delights around the inner harbor. And ate salty, fresh local oysters, succulent prawns and translucent, tender calamari, washed down with a fine local dark beer and cider. This is a place that we need to spend a few days exploring. In fact, Vancouver Island as a whole warrants a couple of weeks. Maybe one day.

Ischgl ski video

A productive week on the video production front. Here’s the one from our Ischgl/Hintertux trip back in March.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7qS64F53MU

 

 

Blackcomb Spring bump-a-thon

Far too much snow for bears under the lifts this year. In fact it was easily possible to ski to mid-station on the Blackcomb gondola, and you could get to the village with a small amount of ‘Texas skiing’. In the alpine, the conditions were like a mild February day. Only on the Sunday, when it became very spring-like, did it get a tad sticky up high.

There was some great skiing to be had all over Blackcomb. Glacier Bowl was a sea of bumps on all the steeps. The groomers on 7th Heaven were firm and fast early, and then the whole area softened to open up endless possibilities for exploration. Gladed runs like Outer Limits were soft and challenging, and in the mornings Ridge Runner and Rock and Roll were high speed freeways, with no traffic to dodge. (pics here)

The only downside was that the road up to the top of Solar Coaster had been ploughed for construction of the Peak to Peak gondola. Hence a whole swathe of the terrain served by Solar Coaster and Excelerator was closed. This was somewhat disappointing. But there was still ample choice for 4 days.

Whistler is simply a hoot at this time of year. Cheap, relaxed, good weather, fine snow. I can’t recommend it highly enough for skiing in May.

Thursday 8,300; Friday 9,900; Saturday 10,700; Sunday 7,200m

Season totals: 60 days, 30 powder days, 479,300m vertical

A busy, sunny Whistler weekend

No one should ever have any expectations about having a peaceful ski weekend at Whistler in high season. Especially when the sun shines. But as we rode the gondola and lifts up the mountain from Creekside, it really didn’t look too busy. We even got up the Peak Chair quickly, and had a delightful run down Peak to Creek, in rather excellent top-to-bottom conditions.

Buoyed by this experience, we picked up a quick lunch and headed to the Harmony Chair about 12.30, the theory being it would be less busy at lunchtime. Good theory, one that often works, but not this day. Ah well, 30 minutes later we were at the top of Harmony Bowl and decided that Symphony must be better.

Wrong again. So after a good 20 minute wait at Symphony Chair, a green groomer to Harmony, and another 20 minutes to get up the chair, we’d had enough of the weekend Whistler bowls experience. And of course here’s the Whistler paradox. We headed down to mid-mountain and found the runs off the Garbanzo Chair completely deserted, with absolutely no one waiting at the chair. Four quick laps on runs like Seppo’s and Bear Paw, one bumpy, one groomed smooth as glass, and we were finally having an enjoyable afternoon. Topped off by a final ripper down the Dave Murray Downhill, the beer tasted especially fine in Dusty’s at the end of the day.

Blackcomb was a much more pleasant experience Sunday. Moving ahead of the mob, we lapped 7th Heaven on fresh groomers, and then did two deserted laps on the Glacier Chair before doing the short hike into the Blackcomb Glacier. Blowhole didn’t look too scary, so I dropped in while Jan negotiated the dodgy looking walk across the top. I felt much more confident on skis, and the snow in Blowhole was wonderfully carveable and forgiving!

After lunch, the morning crowds dispersed and we had the pick of runs wherever we wanted. Bark Sandwich was a sunny, bumpy, empty delight. Ridge Runner was a speedy hoot, and various lines down Glacier Bowl, especially Heavenly Basin, that had softened in the sun were pure spring-like skiing perfection.

I guess we should’ve known better than visiting the upper mountain on Whistler on a high season, bluebird Saturday. But apart from the two hours or so standing in three lift lines, it was really a top weekend. There’s so much terrain here that you can pretty much always find the goods, somewhere, away from the madding crowds. See these pics for the evidence!

Saturday: 8500m, Sunday: 8150m

Season totals so far: 29 days, 15 powder days, 223,200m vertical

Schweitzer video on YouTube

9 minutes of powdery fun can be viewed by clicking here!

Our 2007 ski video on youtube

It took a while – like 9 months – but I’ve finally edited and thrown a few of our clips into a video and uploaded it here on youtube. It’s only 9 minutes, and the music is good :-}

I think that’s what’s called a blizzard …

A foot fell overnight, and it felt like at least another one came down while we skied at Mt Hood Meadows
on Sunday. It was a wild day, but actually bearable as the wind wasn’t
too biting and the visibility pretty much ok. On the flatter blue runs,
there was so much snow that you had to straight-line just to keep
moving. Some of the stashes were insanely deep and pillowly, others the
wind had hammered into a less enticing and somewhat solid form. 4 Bowl off
the Mt Hood Express had some of the best and deepest – easily waist
deep at times – snow I found, and it was being continually refreshed by
the wind. And the protected areas off the Hood River Express stayed
lightly tracked all day, making for excellent powdery cruising.

It was quite a day!

Day 6 – 5600m

Season Stats: 6 days, 2 powder days, 43,000 verts

I wish this photo were me, but it from here – some pics from the day so you get the idea.

A magnificent Ski Bowl powder day

Sometimes the Snow Gods hook up with their mates, Fate and Luck, and figure out an attractive plan for some of us. Today was one of those days, on our first ever visit to Mt Hood Ski Bowl.

First, there had been 4 feet of snow in 3 days. And it was cold and light and fluffy – hard to make a snowball, and ironically, not teh best snow to form a base. Second, it was Civil War day in Oregon, when the two major local universities play each other at football, and most people seem to sit in bars and drink all day. Third, we got a room in the very comfortable Mt Hood Inn at Government camp, at the base of Ski Bowl. And finally, the Upper Bowl – reputedly fine terrain – was due to open Saturday morning for the first time this season.

We luckily timed it perfectly and were on about the 15th chair to the Upper Bowl. There was basically knee deep, fluffy freshies to be had everywhere. And about 150 people on the chair. And a big wide open bowl to explore (pics here). And cold, still, bright conditions. There’s obviously nothing wrong with this picture at all.

Once the lines close to the chair got tracked, I followed the locals on a traverse around the ridge of the bowl. It opened up endless lines, steep tight tree chutes, wide open drops, and the odd gnarly cliffy bit to avoid. There were rocks and shrubbery, but the cover was basically excellent. With so much snow and so few people, the face shots were too numerous to count.

Ski Bowl is the heart and soul of skiing, the antithesis of the Disneyland-like Whistler where we’d been last weekend. Four slow, double chairs, friendly little lodges and bars, full of locals and season pass holders, cheap lift tickets, and small but varied terrain to satisfy anyone from beginners to serious hucksters. It’d be a lot less fun when mega-busy, and is a bit low and hence undoubtedly damp on occasions. But hit it on a good day – like today – and it’s quite perfect.

And the forecast for tonight – 2 feet of snow on Mt Hood :-}

Day stats: 5800 metres

Season stats: 5 days, 1 powder day, 37,400 vertical metres

Still backpacking after all these years …

The late 80’s and early 90s for me were times of some serious rail and backpacking trips, all around Europe, Morocco, Turkey, Thailand, Bali and probably other places I forget. Times of camping on the rim of active volcanoes, nearly starving hiking in the mountains of North Africa, and getting so drunk on overnight train trips that we needed the cleaners to wake us up and throw us off the train.

Now in 2007 its Spain – a 2 week trip from Madrid, to Toledo, Andalucia and then to the coast somewhere (yet to be determined) near Almeria to swim, relax and rest weary sightseeing feet.

The essence of this trips is the same as those of times past. Load up pack with too much gear, visit spectacular places, eat and drink regional specialities and get to understand a little about the locals and how they live. And experience a little chaos along the way.

The details are a little different now though. For example, we’re currently sat in 1st class on a train from Madrid to Cordoba, being served fino, wine and empanadas. Paying a few extra Euros for a train that gets in at 9pm instead of 11pm is not the problem it would’ve been previously – time, not money is our enemy now. And Jan has a convertible – a backpack that has wheels for flat terrain and a frame for when wheels are rendered useless. I occasionally feel jealous when stood in a long line waiting to buy a train ticket. But only occasionally.

We stay in simple two star ‘hostals’ rather than backpacker dorms and campsites, and eat and drink a little better quality than trips of the distant past. Also a laptop is an essential part of travel – it buys flexibility, provides access to massive amounts of information, plays music and DVDs,  and gives the ability to book tickets for the Alhambra while you’re waiting for a train. Invaluable really, especially for blogging.

Other than the differences that 20 years of professional life can buy, little else changes. We spent two days in Madrid (pics here), Lonely Planet in hand, walking for 10s of kms around the old town, with its elegant plazas and vibrant, narrow streets. We visited the truly spectacular Royal Palace, to see how ‘the other half’ live. We spent a few hours marveling at the Goyas and El Boscos in the Prado, and the best part of a day in the Thyssen, enthralled by its spectacular collection of modern art.

And in the evening, we bar-hopped, eating tasty tapas and trying all kinds of odd, but invariably quality Spanish wines. Armed with a phrase book, we learned new words for food and drink, and how to order things in Spanish. And we watched the ever entertaining and expressive locals, arriving for dinner at 10.30pm, drinking fino for breakfast, smoking like there’s no tomorrow, and dropping virtually anything and everything on the floor in bars. At times you feel like you’re part of an Almodavar movie.

So we stay pretty true to the roots of backpacking trips, with the core experiences and challenges of travel and life that it brings. And interestingly, among the multitudes of backpackers, most of whom are still dreading their 25th birthday, you see pockets of ‘more worldly’ (ok – older!) travelers, who must feel like we do. Not all of the backpackers of the 70s and 80s have been seduced by the bland homogeneity, convenience and predictability of package tours, luxury travel, and heaven forbid, the ‘keep the locals away from me at all costs’ experience of cruises.

We might be coined ‘independent, mature travelers’ now, but after all these years, we’re still backpacking, and hopefully still a little bit crazy. And may it never change …

Priest Lake weekend

During the summer vacation, it’s nigh impossible to get a camping spot in popular State Parks unless you book months in advance. Which we never do. So this makes early September the perfect time, as the kids are back at school and the campsites are pleasantly quiet. No reservations required, that’s for sure.

So we headed up to the Indian Creek campsite of Priest Lake State Park in northern Idaho. The weather forecast was excellent, hiking and kayaking opportunities were abundant, and the Xterra was loaded with good BBQ food and tempting wine. The right ingredients for a fun weekend, I’d say.

The campsite at Indian Creek is pretty pleasant, but it’s the beach and lake that are the real attractions. A long, wide sandy beach, warm crystal clear water, and endless views to the south along the turquoise mirror-like lake. It’s the sort of place you could spend a lot of time.

But actually we spent almost no time on the beach, apart from putting in and taking out the kayak each day. Instead, the first day we drove up to the north of the lake, and did an 8-mile hike to Upper Priest lake. It was pretty gentle, but passed through some amazing, dark stands of old-growth cedars, and led to small deserted beach where we had lunch. And we saw a woodpecker. It’s hard not to laugh when you see a bird banging its beak vigorously into a tree. It takes me back to late nights out watching the crowds interacting in Manchester nightclubs!

The second day we drove from the lake level (2440 feet) to over 5000 feet to get to a trailhead to ascend Mt Roothaan. The Xterra was definitely needed for this drive, especially on the last mile or so. It was a Lo-range kinda road, steep, with sizeable rocks and deep ruts to negotiate, and a sandy and dusty surface to add a little more spice to the drive. The hike was worth it though, affording excellent views from the peak across to Chimney Rock, the Selkirks and north up to the Canadian Rockies.

I’m starting to like Priest Lake a lot. It’s an incredibly pristine environment surrounded by some spectacular wilderness. We’ve only been (twice) in early September, but the place is almost deserted – we saw no other people on either hike this weekend. And with deep blue skies and warm late summer weather, it’s a place to relax, explore, and in the evening sit in your camp chair, stare at the Milky Way and let your thoughts wander to wherever the breeze may take them. Definitely my kind of place.